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Ice Climbing

Specchio di Biancaneve (Snow White’s Mirror) Sector

Ice Climbing • Belluno
  • /
    Photo: ©Crivellari Massimo, Alte Dolomiti - Sappada Val Comelico
  • /
    Photo: ©Crivellari Massimo, Alte Dolomiti - Sappada Val Comelico
Map / Specchio di Biancaneve (Snow White’s Mirror) Sector
900 1050 1200 1350 1500 m km 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1 1.2

A classic waterfall, known to all ice-climbers of the Triveneto.What makes this flow so popular are the length and breadth of the waterfall, which enable a fine ascent to be made, with limited difficulty (maximum III+).The abundance of ice, not too long an approach of around 45 minutes and the spectacular environment of the climb make "the Mirror” a real must of the Sappadina basin.In addition to the formidable main outflow, it is also possible to climb two flows on the right of the waterfall called "Vertical” and “Cascata di Florit” with a difficulty level of IV+.At weekends and holidays, beware of the crowds…
moderate
1.4 km
0:50 h
178 m
20 m
Altitude:1400 metres above sea level

Exposure:north.

Length and difficulty:240 metres, III+

outdooractive.com User
Author
Mauro Colle Fontana
Updated: 2015-11-09

Difficulty
moderate
Technique
WI3+
Stamina
Experience
Landscape
Altitude
1322 m
1144 m
Exposition
NESW
join point
178 m, 0:50 h
climbing length
280 m, 3:00 h
Descent
280 m, 1:30 h
Belay stations
with bolts
Intermediate belay
pegs, mobile securing means
rope length
2 x 60 m

Tips, hints and links

Variants:there are numerous possible variants for the starting point, the most interesting involves the climbing of the vertical projections to the left, upper face, of the flow.In any case, there are many equipped belay stations (some very old and in need of reinforcement) along the entire waterfall, useful for varying the route or in the event of overcrowding on the main line.All the variants more or less come join together again after the belay niche of the third pitch of the classic route.

Start

Sappada (1146 m)
Coordinates:
Geographic
46.561472 N 12.687857 E
UTM
33T 322787 5159031

Turn-by-turn directions

Starting point: this takes us under the large ice face, where the classic climb starting point is to right (upper face).Depending on taste, it is possible to make the climb at many other points, while keeping the level of difficulty limited. 

Route:the most classic and best-equipped route involves the climbing of the right outflow (upper face).Climb the first ice plate aiming at a little cavity to the right of the flow (50 m 75° SS).Continue thereafter on the left, following the flow to an area where the gradient noticeably diminishes; belay on an obvious rocky ridge on the left (45mt 80° poi 60°, SS, which, in conditions of little snow, can be high and difficult). Continue along the centre to a niche of rock and belay (40 m 75° SS).From this point, the waterfall rises up and the gradient increases, remaining classic and very enjoyable, however.Continue on the vertical, belaying on a rather uncomfortable plate of rock (30 m 80° stretches at 85° SS or alternatively SG); depending on the quantity of ice, it is possible that this belay station will be difficult to find: alternatively, there are equipped belay stations (BEWARE, some may need reinforcing) on uncovered plates of rock.  Continue on the vertical, belaying a little beneath the end of the flow at a convenient ledge (35mt 85° SS).

Descent:with double rope along the classic flow (to the left of the lower face) on new belay stations equipped with chains.

Getting there

From the village of Bach, between the two bends at the florist's, take the road that climbs to the "Alpine shelter of the Alpini, the Italian mountain troops".Park the car at the shelter and follow the cross-country trail to the west for around 100 metres.Here, cross the bridge over the river Piave and again follow the cross-country trail until it rises sharply, then leave it behind and follow the little path than runs alongside before crossing a stream.At this point, follow the path first upwards and then on level ground until the base of the waterfall is reached.  Orange marks, 30 minutes.

Parking

Several parking spaces near the road .
Arrival by train, car, foot or bike

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Difficulty
WI3+ moderate
Distance
1.4 km
Duration
0:50 h
Ascent
178 m
Descent
20 m

Statistics

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Highest point
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Lowest point
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