Rising powerful and elegant between the Creton di Tul to the west and the Geu Alto pass to the east and, especially when seen from Cima Sappada, does not go unnoticed. It takes its name from a unusual natural hole located on the rugged western ridge. If the south side (val Pesarina) is not particularly attractive, the northern one has smooth slabs, strong edges and a marked detrital ledge running from right to left.
The route runs right along the ledge in the aforementioned severe and isolated environment. Two short sections, respectively, in the intermediate and upper stretch, are rocky and there are also some exposed passages, for which it is recommended for those with experience, surefootedness and solid training. In case of snow (early in the season) special caution is needed on most of the route. Its secluded central location and the view offered from the summit are remarkable and amply repay the effort. From up there the view extends from the mountains of the Val Comelico to the Coglians group and on to the mountains of Sauris, the Julian Alps and, if you're lucky enough to find clear skies, to the Friulan plain, the Adriatic and Istria.
Best time of year
difficulty: EE this involves routes that present short stretches of 1st or single passages of 1st + and that are often located in isolated and / or severe settings
time: 3:00 - 3:30 ascent / descent 1:45 - 2:00
trail signposts: n. 321, red stamps
From the refuge Siera, reached with itinerary 4 or 5 or 6 in the Walks section, climbing with Route 15 in the Excursions section to the canyon of the Creta Forata to reach highest part of it. Here, behind the basal rocks of the Creton di Tul, leave the path in the direction of the nearby fork on the right and take the track on the left (a sign with the words “Creta Forata”) which climbs again up a little valley towards the south between boulders and debris, at the head of which turn left again in the direction of the giant sloping ledge that cuts diagonally from right to left across the north cliff-face. Long uphill sections alternate with short shelves, after the second and third of which the climber must pass a small jump (1st) and a sloping band of rock (1st). Then, along a detrital gully, the trail reaches the crest carved between the smaller north-eastern peak and the real summit looking out over the southern slope. Here the path leads up to the summit dome, first diagonally and then following a narrow zig-zag to the small summit cross.
Along the same route.
If you want to avoid passing the Siera refuge, from the valley of Creta Forata you can reach malga Geu using itinerary n. 17 in the Excursions section and from there return to Cima Sappada along itinerary n. 19 of the same section of the book.